Pucusana: a charming little fishing village and a good option for divers

By Gilles Decarie

When we think of Peru, scuba diving is probably not the first thing that comes to mind. We think, of course, of Machu Picchu, the gold of Peru, the ancient Inca civilization, the Nazca Lines, dreams of adventure, and perhaps mystical and unforgettable journeys.

About 90 minutes south of Lima lies Pucusana, a charming little fishing village that I had the pleasure of discovering. There, you’ll find a small dive center called Pacific Diver. While visiting the village, take some time to stroll along the Malecón and indulge in a delicious meal of fresh seafood caught by local fishermen. You can also combine your stay with a boat excursion to La Lobería, where a colony of sea lions gathers near the entrance to Pucusana. Perched on the rocks, they entertain themselves by slipping into the water, climbing back out, and watching us—the tourists who have come to visit them.

Getting there is quite easy. In the well-known district of Miraflores, where many tourists go to enjoy some excellent food, you’ll also find a Pacific Diver shop. Like any good dive shop around the world, it carries all the equipment and accessories needed for scuba diving. From there, a transportation service is available to take you to the dive center in Pucusana and back. For those who prefer to be more independent, you can also travel by private car, rental car, or taxi.

Once there, you’ll find all the facilities needed to accommodate divers. A small shop carries the essentials, and the center also has showers and changing rooms. For those wishing to stay more than one day, a few very affordable rooms are available upstairs, along with a common area, kitchen, and terrace.

In this large bay, near its outer point, you’ll discover dive sites with conditions surprisingly similar to those found in the Gaspé Peninsula in Quebec, or to some I have encountered during my travels in California. In particular, you’ll find beautiful kelp forests.

This probably isn’t the kind of destination where you would plan a week-long diving vacation, as you might in some Caribbean destinations. But it is certainly interesting enough to spend three or four days exploring, with plenty of wonderful surprises waiting beneath the surface.

You may encounter a few small tropical fish, while curious seals occasionally come to visit the divers. You might even spot frogfish and seahorses. Beautiful orange anemones are also a common sight and never fail to amaze us, reminding us of those found at Les Escoumins in Quebec—but in somewhat milder waters. Crabs of all kinds are also abundant and add something special to every dive. In short, Pucusana offers a fascinating mixture of tropical marine life and species more commonly associated with colder waters.

The water is cold during part of the year and can drop to around 15 to 16 degrees Celsius. Depending on the season, however, it can reach much more comfortable temperatures of approximately 18 to 22 degrees Celsius

Since you will probably combine this little diving adventure with visits to other destinations in Peru, there is no need to haul all your dive gear around the country. Pacific Diver has everything you need on site.

You are always accompanied by a local guide, and between the two dives, you are offered a hot drink or tea, along with cookies and a piece of fruit—a pleasant way to spend the surface interval in good company.