The incredible cenotes of Yucatan

January 2001, I made my first diving trip heading south to Puerto Aventuras, Quintana Roo, Yucatan, Mexico.  I did some memorable dives on the reefs with an excellent guide. My partner and I had decided to experience a snorkelling excursion to a cenote not far from Tulum. Cenotes are sinkholes made mostly of fallen limestone present all over the Yucatan Peninsula. The soil does not retain water on its surface. The waters seep through the soil much like through a coffee filter. Then it accumulates in underground rivers where collapses allow access to this system several hundred kilometers long of incredibly transparent fresh water.  It is unique and really worth visiting!

As I was observing the underwater structures from its surface, I saw a glowing light appearing under the surface, then a second one, both coming from the darker part of the cenote. I was amazed to see two divers swimming slowly towards me, illuminating a guideline with their torches. I remember saying to myself: “One day, it will be me”. The novice diver that I was had little control of buoyancy and felt unsafe to attempt this kind of diving. But with this goal in mind, I was motivated to continue my training and improve my skills.

Four years later in 2005, still with this challenge in mind, and with more experience skills, I was ready to confront many of the advanced cenotes caverns. Technically the caverns are the first part of a large underground system (The first 40 meters).I discovered an incredible world of stalagmites, stalactites and formations dating back thousands of years. You shouldn't be too claustrophobic; the passages are wide enough and the dives are fortunately in shallow waters. My favorite location will forever remain the site of my first dive: Chikin Ha, which welcomed me with electrifying turquoise blue waters, inviting and mysterious, rapidly disappearing into the unknown.

Hundreds of dives later, my first post-pandemic trip was to this exact same location, which fortunately had not lost its charm, despite the influx of tourist divers from all over the world. Between 2005 and 2021, I had the opportunity to experience some magical moments of diving in the cenotes Chac-Mool, Ponderosa, Taj Mahal, Dos ojos, Gran Cenote, Car Wash y Angelita. The latest, is a different and unique cenote considered as a deep dive with its 60 meters; it requires a good dose of diving experience. In the heart of the jungle, it offers scenes straight out of a movie. Bare branches pierce an all-white cloud of hydrogen sulfide about a meter thick. This cloud looks like a river on itself at about 25-30 meters deep, and gives access to total darkness below, even in broad daylight. Salt water from the ocean enters this complex system despite the great distance separating them.

Still today in 2023, the region known as the Riviera Maya offers opportunities of all kinds in cenotes and caverns for swimmers, basic divers, advanced divers as well as for those technical divers called “full cave divers” whom visits the meanders of this wonder of the world. Of course, the region is known for its beaches, atmosphere and archaeological sites but believe me, you have to see the light springing from one of these cenotes of Yucatan at least once in your lifetime and who knows, maybe like me, you will fall in love with its beauty! Be careful et respectful of this underwater jewel!